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Milk made the old fashioned way at Sweet Rowen Farm


Like other people, I first mistook the name of Paul Lisai’s Sweet Rowen Farm, assuming it was a misspelling of “rowan,” a mountain ash tree.

I was wrong: Rowen is the Scottish word for the second cut of hay, fragrant grass harvested at the height of summer. Sweet Rowen Farm is built on grass, on the pastures where Lisai’s herd of Randall Linebacks graze in summer and on the fields where he cuts their winter hay.

He came to this farm-in-the-making after a boyhood in Grafton, college at nearby Sterling College and work on dairy farms in the Northeast Kingdom and New Zealand.

On a sunny April day, clad in jeans, a ...